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Trek Madone 7.9 Team Issue 2014 Complete Bike Pieter Van Pietersen Weight: 6800g RRP in USD: $- | |
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SRM Dura-Ace 9000 Power meter This is the first power meter brand, from around 1986. As a result, the design appears to be the most mature and reliable. Strain gauges in the crank measure the force, and this data is sent wirelessly to the head unit. These power meters seem to work reliably for years. Worst case is to replace the electronics, which SRM service can do (cost about $600). SRM service also need to replace the batteries for you, which is expensive and inconvenient (about $100 + calibration). When the battery is replaced, the zero offset needs to be adjusted, but you will need an oscilloscope to get the correct settings. It's not as easy as pushing a button. SRMs are high quality and robust, which is why people love them. SRM adds the most weight to your bike compared to other power meters: 208g over a normal Dura-Ace crank. Pros: reliable, accurate, easy to swap between bikes. The most bling power meter to have on your bike. Cons: Expensive, heaviest power meter, doesn't auto-calibrate due to temperature, doesn't do L-R, unit has to be sent for expensive battery replacement, no GPS in the head unit (although this is coming with the PowerControl 8, summer 2014 or pair it with a Garmin). Software is free but adequate. Better to buy WKO+ Weight: 858g RRP in USD: $3500 Dura-Ace SRM 9000(crank only, 172.5 compact) $3295 Amazon.com | |
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Bontrager Aeolus 5 D3 Tubular Wheels This is a wide rim at 27mm, which can cause problems for some rear brakes, so check before buying (direct mount brakes and early SRAM). The wide rim also means you can run lower tire pressures, ie. 20psi lower than normal, which gives a more comfortable ride. The cork brake pads supplied can be ineffectual in the wet. I had a set of Bontrager carbon tubs from 2007 and the rim delaminated, despite using the supplied pads. Perhaps that was a feature of carbon rims in the early days. The Aeolus 9 is 90mm deep, 7 is 70mm deep, 5 is 50mm deep and 3 is 35mm deep. The deeper rims provide lower drag but higher weight and possibly worse handling in a cross wind. The 5 is is a good compromise. Bontrager claim that their wheels deliver loewr drag values than Zipp and HED. Normal people without mechanics on call could look to the Aeolus 5 D3 Clincher version. It is only 255g heavier (1550g) but will save you a lot of inconvenience associated with tubulars. The cost is $100 more though. Weight: 1295g Aeolus 5 D3 tubular RRP in USD: $2598 Front wheel selling at $884, rear wheel at $1367 | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 ST-9070 - 11 Speed Levers I'm glad to report that the Dura-Ace and Ultegra Di2 levers are interchangable. The Ultegra levers look just as good, and are 76g heavier for the pair, but you will save about $350 (half price). Both levers use the E-tube wiring system. You need to ensure that all firmware is up-to-date to get everything to work together properly. To do this you will either need to: 1) Take it to your local bike shop to upgrade. 2) Buy an internal BCR2 seatpost Di2 battery. The charger doubles as a PC connector so you can use e-Tube software at home. The charger and battery costs about $250. 3) Buy a PCE1 PC Interface Device for about $250. This plugs into a laptop USB port and a lever port. You then update using e-Tube software. Shimano did think one thing to push you to upgrade. Part SW-7972 are little buttons that are mounted on the inside of your bars under the hoods, and allow you to bang it into the 11 sprocket without coming off the drops. You can't fit these to the Ultegra levers. Overall, Dura-Ace or Ultegra, these are beautiful shifters which feel superb in your hands and of course brake and shift perfectly. Weight: 237g pair RRP in USD: $861 pair The Shifter set (left and right shifters) sells for $699. The Ultegra ST-6870 Di2 STI Lever Set is $349 | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 RD-9070 - 11 Speed Rear Derailleur Like the front derailleur, this is a slick bit of kit. Faultless shifting yet again. If you go with the Ultegra version, you'll have an extra 43g of bulbous motor popping out at you. Ugly. I recommend the Dura-Ace version, although preferably as part of an entire bike as buying individual parts is expensive. Weight: 217g RRP in USD: $830 The Dura-Ace Di2 RD-9070 sells for $534. The Di2 Ultegra RD-6870-GS Rear Derailleur at $280 is cheaper, but bulkier. | |
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SRM Powercontrol VII Computer Very expensive compared to a Garmin and no GPS capability until Mid 2014 when the Powercontrol 8 is released. If you are using an SRM then this does look good. I find it difficult to remember what the buttons do. Weight: 65g RRP in USD: $750 These cost $750 pretty much everywhere. Hard to find a new one on discount. Perhaps when the PC VIII comes out the price will drop (Except you'll want a PC VIII). | |
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Speedplay Nanogram Zero Pedals Speedplay pedals are light and are easy to enter as they are double sided. This Nanogram version is very expensive. Fabian Cancellara is using them, so they must be good, right? The pedal is light: Standard SpeedPlay: 210g pair Nanogram SpeedPay: 130g pair Shimano Dura-Ace: 248g pair Look Blade 2: 180g pair But some of the weight has been moved to the cleat, although if you pay for the Nanogram version you do get a light cleat. Standard SpeedPlay cleats: 118g Nanogram SpeedPay cleats: 89g Shimano cleats: 75g Look cleats: 68g There are some problems with these cleats however. 1) You can't screw them to your shoe too tightly. If you do, the release mechanism doesn't work. If you torque the screws correctly, they fall out. You have to use Loctite, which is an unsatisfactory solution. 2) If you live in an area with a lot of rain and mud, like Wales or Seattle, then the cleat mechanism becomes full of grit and stops working smoothly. You'll be fine if you are in california or Sydney. 3) The cleats wear out very quickly if you walk on them. You could carry around cleat covers with you, but who can be bothered with that? 4) If you are building a bike to be over the UCI6.8kg limit, then you'd want to put more weight on the pedal rather than the cleat. I guess we're talking about a few grams here, so it doesn't really matter. 5) They are comparatively expensive at $40 (comparing to Look or Shimano). If you live in a place with good weather and you'd like a really light bike that's good for crits, then go for the speedplay. Otherwise, stick to the tried and tested Look or Shimano (best). Weight: 130g RRP in USD: $630 The Nanogram is selling for $630. Look for the Speedplay Zero Cr-Mo pedalset at $129 for a more reasonable price. | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 FD-9070 - 11 Speed Front Derailleur Well it has to be said, this is a pretty sexy derailleur. Shifting with Di2 is faultless. I sometimes find myself shifting up and down gears just for the fun of it. I like the little electric motor sound. I feel like a cyborg. The Ultegra version is 162g, so 48g heavier, and has added bulk. But it is about half the price. Let's face it, the Ultegra version shifts perfectly, and makes total sense. But the Dura-Ace version is the one you should get. Weight: 114g RRP in USD: $559 You can buy a Dura-Ace Di2 front derailleur for $350 here. You will certainly get the best deal by buying a whole bike with Di2 fitted, or getting a groupset. Consider the Ultegra Di2 option for $211. | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace BR-9000 Brakes These brakes work well, are fairly light, easy to clean, and the pads are not expensive. Nothing bad to report here. The Shimano pads are also very easy to swap out, which is useful if swapping between aluminum and carbon rims. A direct-mount version of the rear brake can be purchased. This is for attachment to the bottom bracket for a more aero effect, e.g. BR-9010 Weight: 293g front and rear RRP in USD: $401 These brakes sell for $282 for the set (Black/Silver). Make sure you are buying a front and rear brake set, and not just a single brake. | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace CS-9000 Cassette Available in 11-23, 11-28, 12-28, 11-25 and 12-25t The largest 4 sprockets are made from titanium to reduce weight. These sprockets are mounted on a carbon spider. There have been reports of these spiders collapsing due to rider power. This may well have been resolved by Mar 2014. The CS-9000 11-23 version is 1g heavier than the CS-7900 version but you get the bonus 11th sprocket. Apparently an additional sprocket makes your ride that little bit smoother. I don't notice anything. I've not noticed if wear is any better between Dura-Ace and Ultegra. I tend to keep my chains clean and change them 3-4 time per year, so I get good sprocket wear on both types. Weight: 163g 11-23 RRP in USD: $360 You'll need a new one of these at least every year, even if you keep your chain clean. The price of cassettes has really rocketed over the last 10 years. The CS-9000 sells for $208 (12-25T) or $201.23 here, which is a decent saving over retail price. Look to the 6800 Ultegra 11-Speed Cassette, 11-28T at $80 for your training wheels. I've found that the Ultegra wears just as well and shifts just as well but is a few grams heavier. | |
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Bontrager xXx VR-C Handlebars Very light bar, although a bit on the expensive side. A lot of riders use aluminium bars which are about a third of the price. Remember that carbon bars should be replaced after a crash - could get expensive. The drop is 125mm, which puts this as a compact bar. You'll need to get the xXx stem and xXx seat post to match. (And a Trek!). Weight: 189g for 42cm RRP in USD: $349.99 | |
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Bontrager Team Issue Saddle
It looks a bit like the Fizik Aliante saddle. The shell is carbon, rails are Titanium. Weight is good at 215g. Price is a little on the high side. I'd go for something a bit cooler looking, unless you're on a Trek, then it'll match. Weight: 215g RRP in USD: $279.99 You can get it at Evans for $221. | |
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Bontrager xXx Stem A great looking carbon stem if it matches your bars and seat post. (For example the Bontrager xXx seatpost, $200 and Bontrager xXx Aero handlebars, $360) I'm a bit skeptical of the 7 degree angle, as it will mean your stem pokes upwards like a craning duck's neck. I suppose that's good if you want to slam your stem (no spacers between frame and stem) but still ride in the drops. Consider buying a cheaper aluminium stem that will be just as light and stiff. For example, the Bontrager Race X Lite 17 degree is 20g heavier, but less than half the price. The Ritchey 260 WCS is 15g lighter and also under half the price. Weight: 120g for 110mm RRP in USD: $229.99 Watch out for fakes as there are a lot of these being sold from China. You can get an original for $207 at Evans Cycles. Evans is a reputable dealer. | |
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Schwalbe Ultremo HT Tires Quite expensive. I'd go with the Continentals or Vittoria. Weight: 260g RRP in USD: $145 Selling for $110 here. | |
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Shimano Dura-Ace CN-9000 Chain This is an 11 speed chain. The old Shimano chains were the best wearing in tests. This 11 speed chain shouldn't wear any faster than the excellent 10 speed versions as the rivets are similar. I get about 5000 dry km per chain. Make sure you follow good chain maintenance procedures to maximize wear. DA chains used to require being mounted in one direction, but this has now changed - they can be mounted any way. I imagine this is because so many muppets were not reading the very CLEAR instructions supplied by Shimano, then complaining about a noisy drive chain and poor shifting. Shimano has also removed the slots that were drilled into the inner plates, yet the chain, being narrower, is 23g lighter. It isn't much, but it all adds up. Weight: 243g for 114 links RRP in USD: $58 The Dura-Ace 11 speed chain sells for $47 here or $41 here. | |
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Bontrager RXL Carbon Bottle Cage Bottle Cage A light carbon fiber bottle cage by Bontrager at 24g. $50 is quite reasonable for this sort of thing. The supplied titanium bolts appear to be a bit weak, an may snap. Don't preach about using a torque wrench, as if you don't tighten up bottle cages fairly well they tend to fall off. The perfect bottle cage for Trek owners. Weight: 24g RRP in USD: $50 This cage sells for $37. There seem to be a lot of fakes out there, so be careful. If the item fails it'll mean a lost bottle, which could ruin your race and could even cause a crash behind you. A fail isn't as bad as a failed fork, but I don't think it is worth saving $20. Just get the real thing. | |